Tatler

You will love the place.
The vast bar, with its big windows, mosaic floors and impossibly high ceilings, is a deliciously extravagant use of space. Marco has, for some years now, denounced Michelin, streamlined his menus and embraced what he calls “affordable glamour”.

The barman mixes a terrific negroni and the wine list is superb, with interesting whites and knock-your-socks-off Tuscan reds at prices that won’t frighten the horses. But its greatest asset is Marco, of course. He may no longer be a boy, or chase Michelin stars, but he is a phenomenon. These days, the stars chase him.